ok. i've run a few simulations in my head of painting minis and a few questions/ideas have come up.
bret, you mentioned you use the cheaper paints from micheals but the paint doesn't flow off the brush as well. you know this appeals to me cause you know i'm a tight-wad. was wondering if adding a few drops of water to each vial of paint would aid the flow without causing other problems.
bret/marc, how well/unwell does it work to paint over paint? using crayons and coloring books as an analogy, if i color a big area brown, are there problems if i go back and paint different colored details on top of that brown?
Post by mister frau blucher on Mar 10, 2013 11:04:43 GMT -5
You can add water, but i don't think it would be better. To be honest, I don't think it is a problem, the paints still work fine, as long as you get them shaken up well. What I really meant to say was that if you had a bottle of Ceramicoat (or one of the three or four other brands) beside a bottle of Vallejo paints, you would notice the difference in performance as far as flowing off the brush. To me it is not a problem at all, but if you were a skilled painter (I am not) it might be irritating.
I have seen some people say they add water like 1 drop of water to 4 drops of paint (so 20%) but i never felt a need to.
Hope that makes sense!
Painting over paint - you can do this, but if you put a lighter color over a darker color, it will look a little bit darker. So you might be inclined to put a thicker coat of yellow over a brown than you otherwise would.
The main problem here is that more coats of paint tends to obscure detail on the figure, as it builds up. That is why most people will strip a figure before repainting it.
For me, one reason I don't go for bigger, less expensive bottles of paint is that even the small ones seem to dry out quicker than I can use them (one of the drawbacks I think of living in Colorado). But again, I have kids so my control over such things as leaving bottles uncovered is not always as tight as I'd like!
Finally, I did hear that PineSol may soften plastic minis (not sure which kind) so it should be used quickly at best.
Hey, we should stat up the minis in the Kickstarter for LAW! Song of Blades and Heroes is doing it officially, so I don't know why I didn't think of this before.
That is not a bad idea, Marc!
Hopefully, we will be able to do it soon, as the minis started to ship last week. They are doing the simple shipments (ie 1 Vampire level with no add-ons) first, followed by the more complicated shipments. They are taking a week-long break during ReaperCon, which is held at their facility.
I got a Vampire and 7 or 8 add-ons, so I will probably get mine in late April.
That gives me enough time to get back to my lead mountain and knock out a few dudes before this shows up...
Post by mister frau blucher on May 20, 2013 12:04:11 GMT -5
Looks like it may be late June at the earliest before I get my minis. The Reaper folks are still waiting on some shipping containers before they can resume shipments. Lots of angst and teeth-gnashing, but most people understand the difficulty. I am cool with it. Not like I don't have several thousand lead guys still screaming out for paint.
Post by mister frau blucher on Jul 2, 2013 15:51:04 GMT -5
Mine came in last Friday, Marc. haven't had the opportunity to cross check off a list to make sure it is all there, but everything looks complete AND outstanding. I will be able to use more of these than I thought with my old lead true 25's. I really like the detail on the various Giants, and Cthulu is cool as well.
Post by mister frau blucher on Jul 3, 2013 8:26:08 GMT -5
I am not going to prime - I've seen on the Reaper forums that it is not necessary. The consensus is that you need to wash them with dish soap before painting, though, because most of the models still retain some release agent that screws with the paint.
I think your idea of a dark wash to begin with is a good one, seen a few others make similar statements. There is a lot of feedback about painting Bones on the Reaper forums, I am going to investigate it in more detail before I paint my first one. That will still be a few weeks away.
Also, Marc, if you got a bunch of warped/bent weapons and such, there is a lot of stuff there about straightening it out as well. Most recommend boiling it for a few minutes, which will allow it to go back to its original cast form, and straightening if required at that point, then dunking in cold water a few minutes.